Read The F*cking Instructions

👋 Hey! If at any point you're not sure what to do, just [ask us](/contact). Silly questions welcome.

1. Parameters

*Create a new resin profile for WARGAMER in your slicer.*


We wish we could just give you the perfect settings based on your printer model, but annoyingly there is almost as much variance between individual units as there is between different models, due to factors like FEP tightness, UV strength, room temp etc.


Instead we want to recommend some safe base settings that will work well on pretty much any printer. You can copy these into your slicer, and forget about them if you’d like. Most of them only serve to make printing faster or troubleshoot if something goes wrong.


[idiot-proof-settings.jpg](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0705/7247/4684/files/WARGAMER_idiot-proof-settings.png?v=1747393953)


The only setting we always recommend dialling in is “normal exposure time,” using an exposure test like the [Validation Matrix](https://www.printables.com/model/229429-photonsters-validation-matrix-v2). (Note: If using this exact one, your bottom layers must add up to 0.2mm. Eg. 4 for 0.05mm layer height)


We recommend against pass/fail exposure tests like the Cones of Calibrations as they can lead to inconsistent results with flexible resins like Wargamer.


If you're new to printing, and you have no idea what we're talking about, you can learn more in this [FauxHammer video](https://youtu.be/Gm0-z971tgY).



If you'd like some more guidance or help reading an exposure test, just [contact us](mailto:[email protected]), we're happy to help.

1.1 Supports

We always recommend using very dense lightweight supports. ([example](https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/wzrat8/using_lightweight_but_dense_supports_for_resin/))


Packing them so densely allows you to set support penetration depth as low as 0.

This results in supports that hold the model well, counteract warping, are very easy to remove, and leave minimal scarring.


Chitubox configuration [exemple](https://assets.yesthats3dprinted.eu/supports_settings.jpeg). 


1.2 Hollowing and drain holes

Large models should be hollowed.


This reduces print failures, and uses much less resin.

Hollow models need good drain holes.


Hollow models should be washed on the inside too (eg. with a syringe) and cured on the inside too (DIY method or product)


2. PPE

Always wear appropriate PPE (personal protective equipment) when handling resin. This includes

• nitrile gloves

• safety goggles

• respirator

• long sleeves and trousers.


3. Temperature

*Wargamer is intended to be used at temperatures between 20-35°C.* If your ambient temperature is significantly lower than this, consider using a heating method. You can read more about temperature on our [blog](https://yesthats3dprinted.com/blogs/the-science-of-resin-printing/how-temperature-affects-resin-printing-the-science-of-resin-printing).

4. Mixing

*Always mix your resin before use. Shake the bottle or stir it inside the vat.* Some ingredients inside the resin naturally settle to the bottom, like bits in orange juice. Mixing the resin makes the material uniform again, which is optimal for printing. Shaking will usually create some bubbles inside the resin. Wait about 10 minutes until these have dissipated before starting your print.

5. Printing

*Pour in carefully, and start your print.* Do not leave the resin bottle open for too long. Extended exposure to air and light deteriorates the material. If you need to add more resin to the vat, make sure this is the same temperature as what is already inside. Once printing is finished, retrieve the part as soon as possible. If left for a long time, it could start soaking humidity from the air around it.

6. Washing

You can choose between washing with water or IPA. The end result is the same, but the workflow is a bit different. Water washing is more manual, but a nicer experience. IPA is less work, but a stinky chemical to deal with. We generally recommend IPA to professionals, and water to hobbyists.

6.1. Washing with water

We don't recommend using a wash unit or dunking into tubs.

*Spray the print with clean water using a spray bottle. Catch any dripping wastewater in a tray.* Make the spray strong and quick. You are only removing liquid resin left on the surface. You are not washing the print itself. We don't recommend using a wash unit or dunking into tubs. The water inside gets 'muddy' immediately, and will not clean as well. A spray also creates much less wastewater. • *Total wash time per piece must not exceed 1 minute.* Wargamer cleans very easily. Washing it for a long time will NOT make it cleaner, it will make it soak up liquid and become sticky. • *The print needs to be bone dry before curing.* If it feels sticky, it is not dry yet (and it's probably overwashed.) See below for drying.

6.2. Washing with IPA

Total wash time per piece must not exceed 1 minute.
You can wash Wargamer in IPA just like any standard resin. ([example](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCgDm1KfboY)) But look out for two things: • *Total wash time per piece must not exceed 1 minute*. (Eg. 30s pre-rinse and 30s wash) Wargamer cleans very easily. Washing it for a long time will NOT make it cleaner, it will make it soak up liquid and become sticky. The print needs to be bone dry before curing. • If it feels sticky, it is not dry yet (*and it's probably overwashed*). See below for drying.

🤔 Prints still sticky after washing and drying? [Contact us](mailto:[email protected]) for help.

6.3. Dealing with dirty water or IPA

Any liquid mixed with resin is toxic.
Do not touch it with bare hands, and do not wash it down a drain. Water can only be used once for cleaning. IPA can be reused many times, but it will eventually be too cloudy to use. The contaminated water/IPA needs to evaporate, leaving just resin behind. This is best done by leaving the mix outside in the sun in a wide tray/container. The water/IPA will evaporate, while the sun's UV rays will cure any leftover resin on the bottom. The cured resin can be safely thrown away. If leaving it outside is not an option, putting a fan in front of the container is a cheap way to speed up evaporation. Any leftover resin can also be cured with a UV light.

7. Drying

*Dry your print thoroughly*. It must be bone dry inside and outside. Do NOT skip this step. Wet prints will come out sticky and soft. Wargamer needs a bit more time to dry than most other resins.

7.1. Active drying

Pat away most of the moisture with paper towels or a cloth. Dry thoroughly with a blow dryer, [blow dryer oven](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkNfD_CO3T8), food dehydrator, filament dryer etc. Drying temperature should not exceed 40°C. High heat will start to melt your prints, and make them feel sticky. If they feel stickier after drying than before, cool them down with cold air before curing.

7.2. Air drying

Pat away most of the moisture with paper towels or a cloth. If washed with IPA, leave for a few hours. If washed with water, leave overnight. A room fan or leaving the print outside can greatly help this process.

8. UV curing

*Post-cure for ~5 minutes using UV light*. Shorter curing times will leave the prints more flexible. Longer curing times will make the prints stronger, but also more rigid. 5 minutes usually gives a good balance between the two, but you can vary this based on your equipment and preferences. 1 minute should be minimum for safety. After curing, it should now be safe to touch the part with your bare hands.

9. Coating

*Spray the print with a primer or sealer*. The coating will protect the print from absorbing moisture from the air, which could lead to softening or cracking in water washable resins. Non-water-based primer is preferable.‎ Primer is also necessary if the finished part will be painted.

10. Waiting

Wait 24 hours before applying considerable force to your print. Resin undergoes serious chemical changes during the printing process, and needs some time to dissipate internal stresses. Your print is safe to handle now, but it will only achieve its full potential after a few more hours of rest.

11. Storage

*Liquid resin must be shielded from air, light and humidity*. If leftover resin in your vat will not be used again for over 24 hours, it should be poured into an air- and light-proof container. This can be the original resin bottle, but if the used resin is somehow contaminated, this will contaminate any fresh resin you had left. Use a filter when pouring. Keep the bottles in a cool, dry place away from sunlight. Finished prints should be shielded from moisture and direct UV light.
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